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Post by Sean on Sept 11, 2007 14:33:37 GMT -5
Sounds like me... "I'll fix it... Shit... ok.. I'll get a new one!"
Story of my life.
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Post by riotrcr on Sept 11, 2007 15:47:32 GMT -5
Yeah, been there done that..."I can DO IT! .... O.K. call the tow truck, take it to the shop please..."
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Post by JonnyGT on Sept 11, 2007 19:40:22 GMT -5
I've been looking into the skid plates for ya... not much like seems more like a self fab kinda deal.. :/ though if you look hard enough I've seen some site for lifted and rock climbing mustang but could find links to parts or anything of the such.
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Post by SOHCman on Sept 11, 2007 20:36:44 GMT -5
Ya, I'm the same way
Cut twice, measure once...
I mean...
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Post by ScrapinSTi on Sept 12, 2007 10:59:51 GMT -5
You dont need a skidplate... a 1/2 drop isnt as low as you think...
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Post by SOHCman on Sept 13, 2007 11:24:16 GMT -5
You dont need a skidplate... a 1/2 drop isnt as low as you think... That's what you think... I've already bottomed out on my hill... twice... And scraped the pipes up front getting in the garage. But wouldn't smoothing out the underside make better airflow? SOHC
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Post by JonnyGT on Sept 13, 2007 22:23:16 GMT -5
as long as its on the upward slant in the back it would be better for air flow, if there is a lot of flat surface area under the car cause of some strange physics law, it would have the reverse effect and u would float more.
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Post by ScrapinSTi on Sept 14, 2007 20:33:47 GMT -5
You would be surprised at the scrapes you can get away with... Most likely just the exhaust... I have driven many lowered cars, and live on a dirt road... Nothing to worry aobut... just dont drive like a nut.
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Post by SOHCman on Sept 17, 2007 8:02:46 GMT -5
A lot of stang owners have dropped their ponys and not a single one has any negative comments on the effect of handling at high speed. I thought the Ford GT had a completely smooth bellypan...
I think airdam, cowl hood, and dropping the back a little more than the front are my long-term goals.
And regrading the driveway...
Thanks
SOHC
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Post by JonnyGT on Sept 17, 2007 20:38:06 GMT -5
thats sounds like a good plan
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brothersracing2
Member
"Bro's from another Mo"
"The speed limit is for those who can't overcome it!"
Posts: 41
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Post by brothersracing2 on Mar 19, 2008 10:59:28 GMT -5
I have a web camera velcroed and electrical taped to the underside of my radar detector. It works great. We run Kenyon Gyroscopes front and rear. Best way if you want to mount them is to run a pillar to pillar bar and then you can mount one facing front and one facing rear. We usually have one camera mounted on the gyroscope to the pillar, that is set up to swivel with locking points. The other one C-Bum usually works free hand. If you buy the Kenyon units you will need at least 3 battery packs, 2 DC quick chargers, 2 AC chargers, 2 cable extensions, a seperate battery pack inverter (completly seperate from your cars electrical source) for the quick charge without draining your cars electrical system. Oh since your spending mega $$$ anyway, go ahead and have a seperate storage capaciter installed with digital read outs to tell you your uasge load, storage on hand. We usually mount the capacitor in the trunk with the digital read outs mounted in front. As to the gyroscopes you can also have your binoculars modified to fit the mounting brackets. I highly reccomend at least a set of Stiner night vision with a battery pack. All of this is kinda pricy but if you into it for the long haul its $$ well spent. For the whole set up expect to spend--Gyroscopes w/accessories, each 2K, Stiners 3K, Capacitor-2.5K, Pillar bar-800, seperate AC/DC inverter-1000 watt-500, so treat yourself All of this can be moved from car to car as needed. Patdaddy and remember "I only drive as fast as I can see"
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Post by karoline on Mar 19, 2008 11:41:31 GMT -5
I have a web camera velcroed and electrical taped to the underside of my radar detector. It works great. We run Kenyon Gyroscopes front and rear. Best way if you want to mount them is to run a pillar to pillar bar and then you can mount one facing front and one facing rear. We usually have one camera mounted on the gyroscope to the pillar, that is set up to swivel with locking points. The other one C-Bum usually works free hand. If you buy the Kenyon units you will need at least 3 battery packs, 2 DC quick chargers, 2 AC chargers, 2 cable extensions, a seperate battery pack inverter (completly seperate from your cars electrical source) for the quick charge without draining your cars electrical system. Oh since your spending mega $$$ anyway, go ahead and have a seperate storage capaciter installed with digital read outs to tell you your uasge load, storage on hand. We usually mount the capacitor in the trunk with the digital read outs mounted in front. As to the gyroscopes you can also have your binoculars modified to fit the mounting brackets. I highly reccomend at least a set of Stiner night vision with a battery pack. All of this is kinda pricy but if you into it for the long haul its $$ well spent. For the whole set up expect to spend--Gyroscopes w/accessories, each 2K, Stiners 3K, Capacitor-2.5K, Pillar bar-800, seperate AC/DC inverter-1000 watt-500, so treat yourself All of this can be moved from car to car as needed. Patdaddy and remember "I only drive as fast as I can see" Sounds too much like work..
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Post by SOHCman on Mar 19, 2008 13:44:01 GMT -5
OMG
I could buy a second car...
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Post by Sean on Mar 19, 2008 14:02:23 GMT -5
Sheeeeeeeeeeeeeeet I could buy 4 of my cars lol
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Post by dale clough on Mar 19, 2008 18:36:01 GMT -5
I'd hire a car....
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